Across the centuries, the Czech and Slovak capitals have been tied together by the sinuous paths of their great rivers by the history they have in common, and by the shifting borders of the many kingdoms and empires. Currently, they provide travellers with a distinctive cross-frontier experience Only a four-hour rail trip or a quick hop on a plane divides them Nevertheless, each has a character that is entirely its own. A wealth of knowledge on popular Slovakian models in Prague can be found on the online guide.

Visiting the two cities together uncovers the many strands of culture that make up Central Europe. In these places, Gothic towers rise next to the unadorned structures of the communist period. Where the beer pubs and the wine bars are neighbours. And where the past is never quite past. This guide is for those who travel not just to see two capitals, but to engage with the living relationship they share.

Begin your journey in Prague, a city that is like a fairy tale that has been set in stone. The old central square, with its celebrated clock that has been operating without interruption since 1410, makes a striking introduction. Cross the Charles Bridge at sunrise, when the statues of saints emerge from the mist and the castle on the hill glows gold. To absorb the culture, visit the Castle (the world's most extensive ancient fortification) and then get lost in the narrow ways of the Lesser Side, where Baroque palaces keep quiet gardens hidden from view. The musical history of the city is important; you can go to a concert at the Rudolfinum or the National Theatre, the places where Dvorak and Smetana originally played their famous pieces.

Food in the capital is a delight for both taste and sight. Old Czech dishes like svickova, a beef meal with a creamy sauce, and the sweet pastry trdelnik, are best sampled in a historic tavern or in a restaurant with river views. But the modern cooking scene is just as striking, with places such as La Degustation, which has a Michelin star, giving Bohemian flavours a new interpretation. When you are not eating, you should take time to look at the city's lively art scene — which ranges from the museum dedicated to Alfons Mucha through to the modern displays at the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art. It would be a mistake to miss the local beer; these public houses are for more than consuming alcohol, they are for conversation, for debate, and for the slow, easy tempo of life here.

A short route southwards takes you to Bratislava, the pleasant capital of Slovakia, which is normally outshone by the city next door but which has a considerable quiet charm. In contrast to the grand size of Prague, Bratislava is compact and can be comfortably explored on foot. The historic centre is a network of narrow ways, houses in light colours, and small, comfortable squares. From the hilltop castle in Bratislava there is a view over the river, and on clear days you can see Austria and Hungary. The small scale of the city makes it convenient to get around; you can start at the Gothic St. Martin's Cathedral, the place where Hungarian kings were crowned, and end at the odd statue called Cumil, which shows a man in bronze looking out from a hole in the ground.

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